donderdag 31 mei 2012

World Cup Bouldering in Vail starts tomorrow!

The world cup in vail starts tomorrow at 10am local time (18.00 in the Netherlands). The men start at 3pm (23.00 in the Netherlands).

And I'll start as 36th (1 group) so that will be around 6pm (2 uur 's nachts in Amsterdam).

 Of course live through www.ifsc.tv

zondag 27 mei 2012

US of A! Training with a jetlag.

Yesterday, The day after arriving in Denver, Colorado, I decided to do something active. First to get used to the high altitude and second to get rid of the jetlag. So we (Mirthe and Pascal) went to Pikes Peak. A 14,150 feet mountain. of course we went up the American way.....by car! In European terms there was a highway all the way up the mountain.

Hans Busker, USA, bouldering, climbing, crimping, worldcup

There were some beautiful scenics during the trip and once we got on top it was pretty windy. I tried to run for a 100meters and then I noticed I got a little bit dizzy and I could feel the height. After a little bit of walking around we went back down to Ute Pass (8,500ft) for some outdoor bouldering. Again with some more active hiking to the boulders.

Hans Busker, bouldering, USA, climbing, five ten

Hans Busker, bouldering, climbing, USA, five ten


After 2 hours of bouldering we went to the local climbing gym in Colorado Springs(6,00ft). It was there were the jetlag really hit me....I couldn't get up a V7 because of unnatural pumped forearms. Good thing I arrived a week before the world up in Vail, otherwise I might have had it in the comp. Afterwards a good steak for recovering and a good might sleep....the today to the Spot in Boulder for some more training!

woensdag 23 mei 2012

Worldcup bouldering Innsbruck 2012

My third worldcup this year.
I had to start last this time....I really should get some ranking points so that wont happen again!  Problem with starting last this time was the temperature. In the morning it was around 9 degrees....once I had to start (13.00) it was around 24 degrees. Sweaty hands, slippery slopers and not strong enough to be able to hold on.
I did feel pretty strong though and finally could climb as I wanted, so up for Vail!

First boulder was a bit too easy I think. I wanted to use my length for the last move and was a bit insecure if I could make it or if I should stand higer....but I did, so I flashed it.

Second boulder I got to the bonus in 1 try, then on to the next hold, a side sloper. I was really slippery so I went back to the previous hold to try another method. That didn't work. Tried a couple of times but couldn't get past the sloper.

Third boulder was a nice start, a sort of mantle on a volume. Then onto 2 small side edges (bonus in 1 try) and then jump sideways. Hard part of the jump was that you had to grab the next hold and simultaneously kick your foot to the sidewall. 3rd try I managed to come close but missed the sidewall at an inch....almost a rasped skin..... 4th try I jump, kicked my foot to the sidewall but not fast enough to build up pressure....no top again.

Fourth boulder was not my style, edges, cross over edges....I really need to get stronger in this kind of climbing. I managed to do the first 2 moves but no more.

Fifth boulder was supposed to be mine. mantle, volumes, and balance. All the things I really like. Unfortunately it took me about 10 times to do the first move because I totally messed up in my head. once I finally got to the bonus hold I only had 10 seconds left for the ending and that was not enough....too bad.

worldcup, Hans Busker, Innsbruck, climbing, bouldering, volumes

bouldering, Innsbruck, Hans Busker, climbing, worldcup, snow, mountain

bouldering, climbing, finals, Hans Busker, worldcup, Innsbruck, snow, mountains

Comp was over for me.....semis and finals were great to watch though and on Monday I had a good training session with Jorg, Nicky, Katha, Jacob and for a few minutes Melissa. After that I flew back to Amsterdam for some necessary working. Then Friday off to Vail!
airplane, bouldering, climbing, worldcup, Innsbruck, Hans Busker

donderdag 17 mei 2012

On my way to Innsbruck

In a few hours I will travel to Innsbruck for my third world-cup bouldering of this season. It will be the first time that Innsbruck is organizing a world-cup bouldering (although they already organized the European Championship, so it should be good!)

You can watch the comp live on www.ifsc.tv at Friday and Saturday.

woensdag 16 mei 2012

Last training before the worldcup in Innsbruck

Yesterday I had my last training before the worldcup in Innsbruck. I went to the climbing gym at Amsterdam Centraal to get some on sight training. For the first in a long time I finally felt pretty strong. Besides that my injured middle finger is getting better by the day. So feeling good for the comp!

follow the worldcup live at www.ifsc.tv on Friday and Saturday!

vrijdag 11 mei 2012

Over 1 week 4de World Cup boulderen in Innsbruck!

Over 1 week vrijdag is de 4de worldcup boulderen van dit seizoen. Het zal gehouden worden in Innsbruck, Oostenrijk.

Vrijdag om 10.00 uur starten de kwalificaties voor de mannen en waarschijnlijk om 16.00uur voor de vrouwen. Live te volgen via www.ifsc.tv! Dus kijken en aanmoedigen!

Deelnemers voor Nederland zijn: Wouter Jongeneelen, Nicky de LeeuwJorg Verhoeven, Vera Zijlstra en Hans Busker (me)

Voor diegene die niet weten wat boulderen is.....check dit filmpje!
Of Wikipedia natuurlijk!

Last teamtraining before the next worldcup in Innsbruck

Yesterday I had my last national team training before the next world cup in Innsbruck. Goal was to climb hard and try to ignore the pain in my finger. This because last Monday I found out that my injury is behaving very strange.....the day after a really hard training session with a lot of pinches it hurts less then the day before.
The training went well and I could even crimp the very small 'Rustam-like-crimps' without pain. At the end of the training my finger was a little swollen and there was a lot of pressure pain,  but today almost all the pain is gone. This gives me a lot of confident for the worldcup in Innsbruck!

maandag 7 mei 2012